I Ate at Keens Steakhouse to See Why the Expensive NYC Spot Is Famous


The mutton was impressive, flavorful, and satisfying.

The mutton at Keens was as good as it looked.

Rachel Askinasi

With a flavor profile akin to really good lamb, this dish felt indulgent, luxurious, and primal — all things you want to feel from a steak house.It’s served sliced off the bone, but a Flintstonian remain was left on the plate, still hanging on to bits of its meat perfect for sinking your teeth into at the end — though maybe not during a business lunch.Cooked medium rare, the mutton was served with a heaping pile of escarole, which was cooked perfectly so as to both wilt like a sautéed green and retain its bite and firm spine.Once we started eating our way through the meat, and the greens fell to the bottom, they soaked in all the jus, becoming much saltier than they were on their own.That was a bummer, but the Keens menu notes you can request lighter salt levels on your meat. So, if you have a sensitive palate, that might be the move for you.Paired with our appetizers and the dinner roll, this was a perfect amount of meat for the two of us — we were full but not uncomfortably stuffed.

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